[Jeffrey] I first encountered Gildas in Madrid when visiting my uncles, who retired to Spain in 2024. Gildas, a Basque pintxo (a little snack), are traditionally made with Cantabrian anchovies, Guindilla peppers, olives, and sometimes pickles, though I’ve seen multiple variations. I enjoyed them most when served with Vermouth. There was something unmistakably shtetl-y in the briny, salty, and crunchy when I bit into my first skewer, and it felt like home–the combination of my favorite Ashkenazi flavors. 

I couldn’t stop imagining a herring variation at a synagogue kiddush served with whiskey or as a side companion to a greasy latke to help cleanse the palate. I developed my herring version first for a small gathering of friends at home, then for a fatty goose-themed Hanukkah dinner in Philadelphia hosted by Chef Ari Miller.  

This herring skewer is greater than the sum of its parts. It consists of just three classic Eastern European ingredients and is perfect for serving with cocktails or starting a meal. Serve it with drinks, any cheese board, any kiddush luncheon, or even beside (or on) a latke as I did for Hanukkah.

Serving Size

10 skewers

Ingredients

• 1 filet schmaltz herring in oil (approximately 10 2.5x1 inch pieces)

•  1-2  full sour pickles

• 10 pickled cocktail onions

  
  

Instructions

1. Prep: Pat the filet of schmaltz herring with a paper towel, cut them into 10 pieces. If the filet is already cut into pieces, either leave as is or cut a few of the larger pieces in half, depending on the desired size on the skewer. Remove the pickles and cocktail onions from their brine. Cut the pickles into ½ inch rounds, half-moons, or quarters to (depending on the size of the pickles) to complement the size of the herring and pickled onions.

2. Skewer: Thread onto a long toothpick or small 4” bamboo skewer in this order: a pickled cocktail onion, then weave through a herring piece, add then finish by piercing the pickle piece through the middle. The herring piece, depending on its length, may fold or curl between the other ingredients. Repeat 9 more times.

3. Dress and serve: Arrange on a plate. Drizzle with oil from the schmaltz herring or extra virgin olive oil to mellow the flavors if the brininess is too strong. Serve immediately at room temperature.

Notes

Herring: The variety of herring is everything here. Schmaltz herring refers to a fatty herring just before spawning. It is more delicate, meatier, and more lightly flavored than matjes herring or herring in wine sauce, common varieties. Get the version in oil, which reduces saltiness and enhances its creaminess. You can substitute with Cantabrian anchovies (Ortiz, Nardin, or Solano are great brands) for a traditional Basque experience.

Pickles: Full-sour, naturally fermented saltwater garlic-dill pickles— tangy, and pungent – are the best. If unavailable, look for Kosher Dills of any variety. Do not substitute with bread-and-butter pickles–nobody will be happy about it.

Onions: Pickled pearl onions are commonly sold as cocktail onions. I prefer tipsy onions in Vermouth. The onions are a bit larger and crunchier, but nice and sweet, which plays well with the salty, sour, and creamy flavors of the herring and pickle.